George Orwell

Which Way, George Orwell?

The BBC has just rejected a proposal to erect a statue in honor of George Orwell outside its new London headquarters. The reason? As the nation's public broadcaster, the BBC is ...

Haunted by Demons

In Britain, there are ghosts everywhere. Here in Italy, there are none. Our house is nevertheless infestata (haunted), according to my wife"€”not by ghosts but by ...

Italy’s Solar Panel Gold Rush

Everywhere I drive in the Italian countryside I come across fields that are now desecrated by ugly solar-power plants. These silver constructions would be aesthetically ...

My Name Is Nicholas and I Am an Alcoholic

I am an alcoholic, or what is called an alcoholic, and I still am an alcoholic, so they say, even though I gave up booze nearly one year ago. Sure, I drank dangerous amounts of ...

Temple of Heracles, Sicily

Dark Clouds Over Sicily

Journalists call August the "€œsilly season"€ because according to legend there is no news and so their job requires them to use even more fantasy than usual. But the global ...

The Naked Tyrants of Dante’s Beach

My wife has a little house in Lido di Dante, a beautiful beach just south of Ravenna where Dante himself died in 1321. The beach is three miles of unspoiled sand dunes and pine ...

The Holy Roman Church of Football

Yet again, a Catholic country has won a major international soccer tournament. Why are Catholics so good at kicking around soccer balls but so bad at running their countries? Is ...

Carlo Marx Meets Mario Tse Tung

Italian communists always wanted a revolution in Italy, but I do not think that this is quite what they had in mind: A Chinese man has just bought the bar at their party ...

Football Trumps the Euro

This evening in the European soccer championships"€™ quarterfinals, the country where I was born in 1958 (England) plays the country where I have lived since 1998 (Italy). ...

Libera

The Rebel Cow of Predappio

I was wading through the daily mire of newspaper headlines the other day about the deepening euro crisis and the latest rich or famous Italian to be arrested when I saw this: ...

Madonna

Do Italians Do it Better?

That slogan on pop star Madonna's T-shirt "€œItalians do it better!"€ may date back to the 1980s but it is still popular with Italian men. They often deploy it to impress ...

Beppe Grillo

Black Robes and Blackshirts

The uomo nuovo in Italian politics is a professional comic called Beppe Grillo, whose slogan is "€œVaffanculo!"€ (Fuck off!) He's opposed to everything, it seems, except wind ...

Basta la Pasta!

"€œYou"€™re so lucky living in Italy,"€ people tell me. "€œThe food's so divine."€ Oh no, it isn"€™t. Italian food is tedious"€”so tedious that I gave up going to ...

The Suicide by Edouard Manet

Italy’s Suicide Epidemic: Perfectly Understandable

Europe's crisis is existential and economic. Here in Italy the talk is of suicide. Hardly a day passes without an Italian in financial trouble killing himself. (They are all ...

Fireflies and Prostitutes

Thank God for the Italian spring. It reminds me that there is more to life than the Italians and the euro. Yesterday I drove out of the provincial city of Forlì in the ...

Benito Mussolini

Red Flags and a Red Rose

Each year on April 25, Italians commemorate Italy's 1945 liberation with yet another public holiday. Any sane person would think this ought to involve honoring those who did the ...


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