Temple of Heracles, Sicily

Dark Clouds Over Sicily

Journalists call August the "€œsilly season"€ because according to legend there is no news and so their job requires them to use even more fantasy than usual. But the global financial markets have a nasty habit of going berserk in August as they did last year when the Dow lost more than 2,000 ...

The Naked Tyrants of Dante’s Beach

My wife has a little house in Lido di Dante, a beautiful beach just south of Ravenna where Dante himself died in 1321. The beach is three miles of unspoiled sand dunes and pine trees. But we don"€™t go to the beach because it has become Italy's most famous nudist beach. Even if we did not have ...

The Holy Roman Church of Football

Yet again, a Catholic country has won a major international soccer tournament. Why are Catholics so good at kicking around soccer balls but so bad at running their countries? Is it because they are Catholics? Last Sunday evening in Kiev, Spain won the European Championships"€™ final to make it ...

Carlo Marx Meets Mario Tse Tung

Italian communists always wanted a revolution in Italy, but I do not think that this is quite what they had in mind: A Chinese man has just bought the bar at their party headquarters in the city of Forlì in the "€œred"€ Romagna region where I live. Attached to the party's headquarters, the ...

Football Trumps the Euro

This evening in the European soccer championships"€™ quarterfinals, the country where I was born in 1958 (England) plays the country where I have lived since 1998 (Italy). Whom do I support? England, for one simple reason: I am English. But even when Italy is playing some other nation, I want ...

Libera

The Rebel Cow of Predappio

I was wading through the daily mire of newspaper headlines the other day about the deepening euro crisis and the latest rich or famous Italian to be arrested when I saw this: "€œMucca inferocita in fuga semina paura"€ (Ferocious cow on the run spreads panic). A cow, nicknamed "€œLibera"€ ...

Madonna

Do Italians Do it Better?

That slogan on pop star Madonna's T-shirt "€œItalians do it better!"€ may date back to the 1980s but it is still popular with Italian men. They often deploy it to impress foreign women they have just met. Do what better? Cheat you, betray you, rip you off, and stab you in the back? The ...

Beppe Grillo

Black Robes and Blackshirts

The uomo nuovo in Italian politics is a professional comic called Beppe Grillo, whose slogan is "€œVaffanculo!"€ (Fuck off!) He's opposed to everything, it seems, except wind farms. Such are the consequences of the euro crisis, whose cause is simple"€”too much sovereign debt in countries ...

Basta la Pasta!

"€œYou"€™re so lucky living in Italy,"€ people tell me. "€œThe food's so divine."€ Oh no, it isn"€™t. Italian food is tedious"€”so tedious that I gave up going to Italian restaurants of my own free will long ago. I was never a Michelin Star-obsessed gourmet, but I had passion. Not ...

The Suicide by Edouard Manet

Italy’s Suicide Epidemic: Perfectly Understandable

Europe's crisis is existential and economic. Here in Italy the talk is of suicide. Hardly a day passes without an Italian in financial trouble killing himself. (They are all men.) But the Italians are a nation of drama queens who are right up there with the best of them when it comes to playing ...